Like most kids in the 1960s, I started my fishing career with spinning tackle. There were plenty of inexpensive spinning reels available back then that made learning to cast a quick and easy process for a young angler. Gaining competence with spinning gear soon led to my buying my first fly rod. The learning curve for fly-fishing was considerably steeper, but one I readily navigated. It would be almost thirty years later that I decided to embrace bait-casting tackle as a significant part of my fishing arsenal.

Because trout fishing tended to be my primary focus in those younger days, bait-casting wasn’t a method I found much use for. The type of small-stream trout fishing we do here in central Pennsylvania is generally done with small, lightweight baits, lures or flies on relatively light line. Bait-casting tackle functions best with heavier lures and lines than are more optimal for bass fishing than trout fishing. Most of my bass fishing during that period was for river smallmouths or an occasional lake trip for largemouths, and I had spinning outfits to handle those situations adequately.

During the 1980s, however, professional bass fishing became a driving force throughout the country with many major tournaments being televised. This came at a time when my personal interest in bass fishing was growing, and I wanted to learn as much as possible. Watching those pro anglers in action on TV back then, it was glaringly obvious that most were using bait-casting gear most of the time. So I decided that I should include bait-casting tackle in my bass gear if I wanted to elevate my game and bought my first quality bait-casting rod and reel. It wasn’t long before I had a rack full of bait-casting outfits (and that rod rack hasn’t stopped growing).

Bait-casting reels work best for throwing lures in the 1/4- to 3/8-ounce range or heavier, especially for someone who is learning to cast with bait-casting tackle. One of my favorite lures for river smallmouths is a soft-plastic tube rigged on an 1/8-ounce jighead, but I always found them a little light to cast well on most of my bait-casting gear. A few years ago, however, I found a small Lew’s reel and paired it with 6 ½-foot, medium-light action Bass Pro Shops Carbonlite rod. With that outfit, I can cast my 1/8-ounce tubes nearly as far as with spinning gear, and fishing them on the bait-casting outfit is an absolute joy.

Many modern bait-casting reels have sophisticated braking and cast-control systems built into them that can virtually eliminate most backlashes when properly adjusted. Of course, like most things, you get what you pay for. I’ve bought a few bargain-priced bait-casting reels over the years that performed satisfactorily, but most were not so great and would have been total frustration for a novice bait-caster. Having owned reels of all price points, I would recommend choosing one from a top manufacturer that sells for somewhere between $100 and $200 as a first bait-casting reel. Reels in that price range typically the best value in casting control and overall performance.

Even the most expensive, high-tech bait-casting reel won’t cast itself, so be prepared to commit to some practice time learning how to adjust and cast your new reel. I started bait-casting with monofilament line but now have braid on all my bait-casting reels and find it casts more smoothly. Start with a practice plug of about 3/8 ounce, and don’t be concerned with casting distance at first. Strive for accuracy and develop the proper casting stroke and release point, both of which will be somewhat different than you are probably used to with spinning tackle. The key is to correctly set the casting controls of the reel and to train your thumb to feather the revolving spool during the cast to prevent backlashes and overruns. As you acquire the proper touch with your thumb, begin to back off the magnetic brake a bit at a time to help increase casting distance.

Like most anglers nowadays, I started fishing with spinning gear as a youngster. Being righthanded, I hold the rod and cast with my right hand and then crank the reel with my left hand. With bait-casting tackle, however, the traditional method is for a righthander to cast with his right hand, then switch the rod to his left hand and crank the reel with his right hand. That technique never made any sense to me. I’ve often watched the guys who do it that way with a bait-casting outfit only pick up spinning gear and cast and fish right-handed while cranking left-handed. I’ve asked dozens of anglers, including several pro bass fishermen, why they switch hands with bait-casting gear and essentially fish left-handed, and most of them simply say, “That’s how we have always done it.” I would have no problem cranking with my right hand, but I certainly would not enjoy fishing or setting the hook lefthanded. Fortunately, most reel manufacturers offer a wide variety of models in both left- and right-hand crank, so pick the side that you are used to using.