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By Walt Young
For the Mirror
Fishing line is the direct connection between an angler and the fish he has captured. Choosing the proper line for where and what you are fishing for can be vitally important for success, not to mention promoting an enjoyable time on the water.
Three types of fishing line are currently popular for basic freshwater fishing for bass, trout, panfish and other species using spinning and bait-casting tackle: monofilament, fluorocarbon and braid. Each type has its own set of characteristics, advantages, and disadvantages.
Most older anglers likely grew up fishing with monofilament line, and monofilament remains the most popular choice currently for several reasons. Monofilament lines are relatively inexpensive and readily available in a variety of sizes and colors to suit any application. Most premium monofilament lines are made from special copolymers that handle well and cast superbly. Knots are easy to tie and hold well.
Monofilament lines have some degree of elasticity which them to stretch somewhat when subjected to stress. This characteristic can be both a blessing and a problem depending on the situation. A bit of line stretch can act as a shock absorber to prevent line breakage when fighting a big fish; on the other hand, too much line stretch can be a hindrance to making a solid hookset on a long cast.
Monofilament can develop a "memory" if left on a reel for too long causing the line to come off the spool in a long, open spiral that inhibits casting and can produce nasty tangles. Monofilament is also prone to deteriorate when expose to heat and sunlight, so replacing the line frequently will ensure top performance, especially in the summertime.
Fluorocarbon line is similar to monofilament, but most fluorocarbon lines are made from a polymer called polyvinylidene fluoride. Anglers tend to prefer fluorocarbon because it is more abrasion resistant and has less stretch and lower memory than monofilament. Fluorocarbon is also touted as being nearly invisible underwater.
My personal experience, however, has not made me a fan of fluorocarbon line. Although fluorocarbon line costs three to four times as much as monofilament, I found it did not perform any better, and in some respects even worse, than my preferred brands of monofilament. Because fluorocarbon is stiffer than most monofilament, I found it to be especially troublesome on spinning reels. The final deal-breaker for me regarding fluorocarbon, however, was chronic problems with knots. I know my knots and tie them perfectly all the time, every time. Too many unnecessary knot failures were something I would not accept.
My last experimentation with fluorocarbon was just before I started using braided line. Braid is now my preferred line on all my bait-casting outfits and most of my spinning gear. Braided fishing lines made from cotton or linen have been around well before monofilament, but the modern braided lines currently on the market are woven from synthetic polyester fibers. These super lines are incredibly strong, small diameter with no memory and cast like a dream. For example, 6-pound test monofilament will typically be .009- to .010-inch in diameter, while 10-pound test braided line might be a mere .004-inch in diameter.
Braid has no stretch for solid hooksets even with light line at long distance. Its lack of stretch also makes braid amazingly sensitive, especially for fishing jigs and some soft-plastic lures. It was that characteristic that made me a convert to braid.
Although braided lines are several times more expensive than monofilament, they do not deteriorate and will last a long time before needing to be replaced so braid is probably less expensive in the long run. You can't cut braid with nippers like mono. When working with braid a sharp knife or scissors will be needed to cut the stuff, so you should have one of those tools in your tackle bag.
Many knots that are useful with monofilament don't work well with braid no matter how well they are tied. I also prefer to use a monofilament leader about 30-40 inches long attached to the braid for most kinds of freshwater fishing. To attach the leader to the braid, you can use a double uni-knot.
I have found using small metal tippet rings designed for fly-fishing make attaching a leader to braid much quicker and easier, especially on the water. Attach the ring to the braid with a uni-knot, then attach the leader to the ring with a clinch knot.
Most popular brands of braided line come in 125- or 150-yard spools. There is no reason to put the entire spool of braid on a reel when most of that line is merely filler and will never see the light of day during normal fishing situations. Get a bulk spool of inexpensive monofilament in 8- or 10-pound test. Fill the reel spool most of the way with the cheap mono.
Then join your length of braid to the mono filler with a double uni-knot and finish filling the spool with the braid. If the braid comes on a 125-yard spool, put just over 60 yards of braid on the reel, which will allow you to fill two reels. With a 150-yard spool, put 50 yards on a reel, which will allow you to fill three reels. Make sure the reel spool is properly filled but not over-filled.