STATE COLLEGE — The exposed brick walls, ornamental wrought iron and chandeliers remind you of Charleston, South Carolina. The fish net draped from the ceiling, along with nautical-rope light fixtures, oyster shells and other coastal relics remind you of the Lowcountry and all the good food that comes from it.

In a rarity for central Pennsylvania, you can find a lot of Southern-influenced cuisine at Gigi’s Southern Table on Route 26 on the southern edge of town here. While they fly in fish caught fresh from the Gulf Coast — or Alaska or the Atlantic, depending on the season and availability — they use as many locally sourced ingredients as possible, said Valerie Thurnau, assistant general manager.

Other restaurants may have Cajun-inspired food and a steam bar, but “we are one of a kind for State College,” she said.

There’s even The Back Porch — when the weather is nice. And, for the uninitiated, Gigi is a Southern term of endearment for grandmother. In this case, it’s Susan Heim, who is related to one of the investors that opened the restaurant in 2011 in the former Prospectors Rib House and regularly visits South Carolina.

“She is the epitome of Southern hospitality,” bringing in old community cookbooks and southern recipes often to help infuse a Lowcountry touch to the menu, Thurnau said.

That menu varies from a lunch to limited to dinner, which starts in full at 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and there’s a brunch on Saturday, as well. And, all menus vary by season, depending on product availability.

The Shrimp and Grits is “fantastic,” said Thurnau. The blackened, grilled shrimp comes with grits, Louisiana-inspired tasso ham gravy, tomatoes and more.

“Just like down South, the grits are hominy, homemade creamy grits,” she said. “People come in and say they’ve never had grits, but here, you try them and you come back for more. Before I came to work here five years ago, I’d never had shrimp and grits and I fell in love with the dish.”

Other dinners “from the pond” include Charleston Twin Crab Cakes for $26 and Chicken & Crawfish Jambalaya for $25 and fresh-caught seafood that varies and is priced according to market conditions.

Executive Chef John Clickner brought out dressed red snapper and red drum caught the day before and flown in overnight.

“We’ll serve it tonight and tomorrow,” he said. “Nobody in State College has it that fresh. We know who caught the fish: the name of the boat, when he caught it and where.”

A raw bar offers oysters on the half-shell.

One of the more popular menu items is the Cajun Catfish Tacos, according to Thurnau. The catfish comes from the Chesapeake Bay, where it’s considered an invasive species by marine authorities and readily available. It is blackened/grilled with a sweet corn salsa and spicy chili aioli, or sauce.

“If we took that off the menu, there would be a riot,” she said, noting that all sauces and dressings are housemade.

The two most popular appetizers are the Farm Frites, which are local green beans chargrilled with horseradish aioli, and the Crispy Calamari, that uses a gluten-free flour, pickled peppers with lemon-caper berry aioli, Thurnau said.

“I’ve been told it’s the best calamari in town,” she said.

One item not on the menu regularly is fried chicken “because it takes so long to cook” and dinners are prepared to order, Thurnau said.

“But they pull out the deep fryer for special occasions,” she added.

You could get Maple Bourbon Chicken or a Filet Mignon; all Gigi’s meats, including ham and bacon, come from local farmers.

“Our Bacon Cheddar Burger is another favorite,” Thurnau said. “We have a couple of pasta dishes so we definitely have something for everybody.”

The Saturday brunch includes three versions of Eggs Benedict: classic, farmer and Cajun, the latter two served on a grits cake. One — guess which — is served with gumbo. Or, for $6, you can get a bowl of Louisiana Gumbo made with local andouille and chicken — add crawfish for another $2.

Brunch features $3 mimosas, and Bloody Marys are available, as well.

“It’s a delicious and fun way to spend a Saturday,” Thurnau said.

Wednesday nights feature a “build-your-own” macaroni and cheese special. And, on Thursday nights, as long as the weather holds, Clickner uses a smoker behind the restaurant to slow-cook quarter-chickens, as well as brisket for 14 hours and pork butts for pulling.

Gigi’s is busy on Fridays and Saturdays when Penn State plays football at home; the lounge and bar with big-screen TVs fill up fast, Thurnau said. The drink menu rotates, as well, based on the availability of seasonal ingredients; martinis include a Carpet Bagger and a Rhett Butler, of course, or you can order a Mint Julep.

Laura Dininni said Gigi’s is very convenient for her role as a supervisor with the West Ferguson Township whose offices are nearby.

“It’s an easy place to meet people over good food and good drink,” she said. “I’m vegetarian, and their garden tacos are delicious.”

Briana Wisor and Richard Hubler are other local regulars, and she noted that “everything is fresh,” and he likes it because the menu changes. “It’s different,” Hubler said.

Teri Lindner and Phil Baldi of State College were enjoying the calamari, gumbo and French Onion Soup for lunch recently, and said not only is the food good, the ambience is, too.

“The food is more unusual here,” Lindner said. “It’s not the same old same old.”

Mirror Staff Writer Cherie Hicks is at 949-7030.

Behind the plates

Gigi’s Southern Table

2080 Cato Ave., State College

(814) 861-3463

Online: www.GigisDining.com, www.facebook.com/GigisDining/

Hours: Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., with limited menu between 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. to transition from lunch to dinner. Bar open later.

Atmosphere: Casual chic

Specials: Express lunch, pick two for $9 or three for $13 from small salads, soup and select appetizers; a Saturday brunch; fresh caught seafood at market prices for dinner.

Capacity: 258

Notes: Gluten-free and vegetarian selections; takeout; reservations, recommended on Penn State home game weekends